A holiday on Thursday for the Festival of Eid al-Fitr. This
marks the end of Ramadan. Thank God, whoever your god is.
Not that I actually did any fasting but I just felt quite
debilitated by the thought of it. So I think I deserved to join in the
celebrations at the passing of this period of abstinence.
Special prayers are said, largely in the open in fields and stadia as well as mosques and then it’s a big festival of consumption.
People were staggering out of the markets on Wednesday evening laden with soft
drinks and cakes and nuts and fruit and sweets. And then it’s a sort of open
house for three days – like Hogmanay used to be in Scotland, with a rather less
conspicuous consumption of Scotch. Rounds of visits to relatives and friends
and the receiving of same at home. I’ve no idea how they work out who does what,
where and when but it seems to work. No groups of revellers wandering the
streets looking for someone who is in, to visit. Although there were gangs of
children roaming around armed with carrier bags collecting protection money in
the form of sweets from all and sundry..
Not equipped to receive at home, I did my bit of
visiting. As always, a fantastic spread
awaits. Fruit and nuts and sweets and sambusas (what we would call samosas) and
tomatoes and cucumbers and, of course, heaps of bread. All very nice but what I
can’t get used to is the lack of a hierarchy of eating. No starter, main course,
dessert as set in stone for British menus. At my first call a massive wedge of
cake was thrust before me. I was just into my second forkful when space was
made in front of me for some shurbo – a bowl of soup with half a sheep in it. Then
perhaps some dates and a loaf of bread followed by a chocolate bar…
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| Shurbo |
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| Sambusas |
As a culinary widower I take what I can get but it is
unusual.
Anyway, it’s all about unity and charity and celebrating
God’s gifts. Men only of course. The women cook and serve the food; the men sit
around and munch and chat. Ouch! I can feel the pins being put in the voodoo
doll out there. All I can say is that
the women seem to be having a pretty good time in their part of the house and
they probably get to eat in some sort of logical sensory order, laughing at us
juggling with meat and two veg in one hand and home-made chocolate cake in the
other.
| Enjoying Eid |
The next Festival is Eid al-Adha, or feast of the
sacrifice, in mid October. This is an important religious holiday honouring the
prophet Ibrahim (Abraham) whom God tested by commanding him to kill his young, first
born son to prove his faith. Ibrahim – and son – were steeled to go through
with this but luckily God intervened at the eleventh hour with a lamb to
sacrifice instead. As this is also a part of Christian teaching and as a first born I’m
rather glad they worked something out.
Not
so good for the sheep though. Boys are taught the secrets of sheep slaughtering
at an early age here. It’s a bit of a coming of age ritual. Apparently you
cover their eyes with their ears (the sheep that is)… Not sure that really
qualifies as humane, though, and it still doesn’t prevent a hell of a mess on
the carpet.


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