Postscript

Dressed to go to Waitrose in Morningside

I’m now back in Scotland and I have to pinch myself to believe I’ve been away.  It’s much easier than I imagined to slip back into “normal” life; although automatically saying assalamu alaikum to the check-out girl in Waitrose and touching my heart brings a blank stare and a reminder that south Edinburgh is not generally Islamic.

And the verdict? An incredible experience; life affirming to see people with so little being so generous; frustrating to think of all the things I could have done and didn’t do; satisfying to reflect on all the things we did achieve; daunting to think of all the things that still need to be done.

But the purpose is to help others; what did my hosts think? This is difficult to say, especially somewhere where people are so polite. The tourism reform programme has been approved by the President; that’s a start. I made lots of friends; that can only be good.  I introduced people to Scottish culture – well, they’ve got to learn to take the rough with the smooth…

What have I missed? My family, of course. Fish suppers. A pint in the pub. The idea that people and organisations can – usually and ultimately - be held accountable for their actions.

What have I missed that I’ve been glad to escape? The incessant media deluge I allow myself to be subjected to. The retail driven “greed-fest” that is the now the traditional lead-up to Christmas. The continuous loop of the Scottish independence argument. The cynicism and the way we take everything for granted. Escape to a simpler place and time has certainly had its benefits.

And Tajikistan? Well, it’s hardly a revelation to say I’ve never been anywhere like it. A wonderful country of tremendous contrasts. A hard drinking, Islamic, soviet socialist, free market, beautiful, intimidating, lethargic, stimulating, hospitable, crazy, mixed-up place. A police state of peaceful people who compete to look after strangers. A spectacular natural environment and complex social cocktail.

What would I wish for Tajikistan? Certainly not to be like us; I feel almost reluctant to be encouraging tourism. I have no doubts about the economic benefits and I know it’s disingenuous in the developed world to go on about authenticity and simplicity as we rush back to our increasingly artificial creature comforts. But I hope the Tajiks can keep their life built around people and not things. I hope they can retain their tolerance and charm. I hope they don’t get McDonalds and Starbucks and advertising plastered everywhere and 24 hour a day news channels.

I hope they get good government and the rule of law. I hope they don’t get swallowed up by the forces around them; Russia to the north, China to the East and Afghanistan and Iran to the south. I hope they get indoor plumbing.

Just before I left a couple of local colleagues took me to a small and rather run-down hall where a dance school was practicing. I was entranced. The best of Tajikistan; young, talented people caught up in the country’s great love – dancing. We made a short video, link here http://youtu.be/GXc9AyHRB5M. This encapsulates the best of my memories.

I could take to this, but would they lift me up again?

I am now hanging up the blogging pen until the next adventure. I wish everyone all the very best and hope particularly that my fellow VSO volunteers all have as rich an experience as I have had. Have a great Christmas and New Year. Assalamu alaikum.