I don’t want to give the impression that developing tourism
is just gadding about the country eating, drinking, enjoying the scenery and
testing exotic bathroom arrangements. That’s the tough part, of course, but
there’s also sharing experience and trying to influence key stakeholders to
adopt new ways of doing things.
The goal of VSO is to eliminate poverty and I believe that efforts
to achieve this must be directed first and foremost at host country governments.
It’s no good treating the symptoms without attacking the cause. There has been
a lot of excellent work here to support the growth of tourism going back more
than ten years but little of it has lasted. It has often been narrowly
focused on specific regions or groups, effective so long as a project has been
in place and grant funding has been coming through, but then allowed to peter
out. This is partly because there have not been any supporting
policy changes from central government. Regional marketing and product
development projects, for example, are going to struggle if access to the
country is difficult and expensive.
To address this we now have a comprehensive national Plan for
the industry covering access, marketing, quality advice,
visitor information, signage, tourism infrastructure and –
generally – how to cope with those very difficult, demanding and capricious
people we call tourists. Within this there are detailed plans for reforms in
areas like the visa regime, air access and small business financing.
There is hardly a dissenting voice to the Plan, but that is
deceptive. Changes threaten vested interests and a person's public position of country
before self is very rarely wholly borne out in practice. We can expect some turbulence.
Anyway, the Plan will
go to the newly-elected President in December and we are optimistic. One
advantage of a “streamlined” democratic process is that, if approved, it can
proceed fairly quickly to implementation.
| Somon Palace : The Seat of Power |
There has been one ray of sunshine already. Tourist visas for trips of up to 45 days are now available for £20.
This is a marked improvement on the standard visa rates - which meant spending
£60 to £80 – and also comes with a waiver on the need to register with the
security services when in the country. So I’m expecting plane loads of Brits
clogging up my trolley bus and favourite choikhona any time soon.
As well as developing recommendations with government I have
been acting out the professorial bit with lectures, presentations and
workshops. Last week I was back in the town of Garm, in the east between the
Fan Mountains and the Pamirs.
| Late Autumn in Garm |
I was working with a group of youngsters who are
interested in bringing tourism to the area. Their English is quite good but their
grasp of economics and business comes from old Soviet textbooks…. This, as well
as endearing local culture, showed through in some of our exchanges.
Me : “We should do some market research.”
Them : “Why?”
Me : “So we know what people want.”
Them : “Why do we want to know what people want?”...
Or
Me : “If we attract lots of visitors where will they stay?”
Them : “It’s OK we’ll find families who will take them.”
Me : “But we have to organise this on a commercial basis.”
Them : “No, don’t worry. Just tell them to turn up and we’ll
look after them.”
Or
Me : “What can visitors do when they come here?”
Them : “We’ll take them to a Tajik wedding.”
Me : “Wouldn’t the bride and groom and their relatives want
to have a say in this?”
Them : “Why?”..
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| The new Tajikistan marketing campaign - "Just Turn Up" |

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